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Sunday, December 8, 2019

The Obo-Manobo Lifescape of Salaysay, Marilog District

Mindanao has always been a home to different cultural minority groups. The vast forests especially in region XI where several mountain ranges are located serve as dwelling places to these group of people representing various identities of the Filipino culture which also become a living exhibit of the richness of cultural life not only in Mindanao but in the entire Philippine archipelago.
In my years of working in the mountains of Mindanao I was able to immerse myself to different tribal subdivisions. My longer engagement is specific in the foothills of Mt. Apo particularly in Davao del Sur where I co-celebrated success in undertakings related to tourism like the one in Sibulan, Tibolo, Loay and Sinoron. Evidently the Bagobo-Tagabawa tribe is already a brother tribe to me but I also have short stints working with the B’laans, K’lagan and Tagacaolo; all in Davao region. Truly, the island of Mindanao is the melting pot of these tribes and that somehow makes me realize it is disastrous not to be able to learn or at least immerse myself to take good grasp about how they co-existed with the times.


In year 2019 I was acquainted to the Obo-Manobo tribe in Davao City. My continuous participation to birding sessions in the slopes of Marilog District particularly in Karilongan, Buda and Salaysay has accumulated certain interest with this group. In our quest to search for good highland birds I ended up looking myself chasing after the Obo-Manobo who constitutes one of the dominant tribes in Davao City.

Except for some differences in dialect the Obo-Manobos are practically identical with the Bagobo-Tagabawa in some aspects because of obvious fact that they share portions of their locations geographically. Presently they have been dispersed as far as North Cotabato, Davao Provinces and even Bukidnon. Manobo simply means “people” and they have been referred in different ways like Manuvu and Minuvu, whichever is appropriate but the one thing definite about the name is it being derived from the word “Mansuba” which means “river”. Majority of the Manobos preferred to settle to areas near the rivers with adjacent hills and valleys in order to do farming, the heart and soul of their survival. While living in a critical protected areas of the region they have been continuously considered to become part of the conservation of forest because for a very long time they have been employing a destructive farming method called “slash and burn”. In Salaysay for example, there are portions of the forest there being transformed into farmlands, and these are not ordinary forests but nesting grounds of endemic birds and the highly endangered Philippine Eagle.

 The Obo-Manobo culture, like any other cultural groups, are also in danger of being totally evaporated. Although there are parts where children still talk using their dialect but government interventions seem not in conformity to the aspirations of conserving the heritage. Mother tongue curriculum uses Visayan instead of the Obo-Manobo dialect and the introduction of modern stuff made the younger generation oblivious of their own. In this day and time the challenge has always been on how to safeguard local traditions while also embracing contemporary patterns of life.

In Salaysay where my Big Year Davao team stayed long enough to wait for the Philippine Eagle we experienced how friendly the Obo-Manobos are. In an abode where their economic struggle is obvious we were given 5-star reception. We were provided native coffee and water, perhaps the most valuable stuff they could offer to visitors like us. I seated to one of their huts and thought of having one in my own at least two years from now. In the middle of their domain I appreciated life all the more, simple life free from hitches and debacle in the city. This is what I get when birding, the specific evolution of adaptiveness to the so-called primitivism.  
 Life is all more complicated in the lowlands now. Without any doubt what causes this complication is our failure to appreciate and understand history and culture. We all started bare then and we all looked blind-folded to fast-forward the life that we have unmindful that the best part of life cannot be enjoyed in the fast lane. It might be unfitting but I would rather settle to stay sluggish but happy than be in unison with the rest of the present world.

My personal dispatch of doing cultural immersion is to document the remaining practices of the Lumads all over the Philippines in this rapidly changing and transforming times.

Sunday, December 1, 2019

Birding in Pasonanca Natural Park

Pasonanca Natural Park is a 17,000-hectare plus forest reservation area and is a declared protected area under the National Integrated Protected Areas System Act of the Philippines. It borders two major provinces Zamboanga del Norte and Zamboanga del Sur and is easily accessible via city proper of Zamboanga. Pasonanca Natural Park is the main source of potable water in Zamboanga City, in fact an interesting protection mechanism here is shared not just by the local government unit and DENR but the local water district as well. Its old-growth forest is situated just 78 meters above sea level, making it I think one of the more lush forests in lower elevation. This protected area is also developed as an ecotourism site where certain portion of the park is devoted for tourist activities like hiking, river trekking, camping and bird watching.


I got the opportunity to visit Pasonanca Park last November 27 when I participated the Mindanao Protected Area Management Board Network Conference held in Palacio Del Sur Hotel, Zamboanga City. The conference was a gathering of sort for all protected area workers in Mindanao and my participation was specifically handpicked by DENR due to my long-time engagement with Mt. Apo.

The itinerary was supposed to have us visiting two good birding sites in Zamboanga in Day 2 with Pasonanca Park in the morning and Sta. Cruz Island in the afternoon. However, the latter was cancelled due to a mishap that happened a night before the tour involving big vessel and a boat where 4 Protected Area personnel were on board, the case had me settled to a Pasonanca Park birding in the early morning of November 27. Together with my guide Joel Baysa who was earlier referred to me by Big Brother Pete Simpson, I arrived in Pasonanca Park by 6:00 AM and started the walk through were flock of Coleto warmly greeted us. The goal was to actually see a Mindanao endemic Zamboanga Bulbul but it seemed that the bird was shy in the early part of the day.


In a river portion near a flood control dam I saw a solitary White-eared Brown Dove and minutes after a group of seven Mindanao Racket-tail came across. Joel brought me to a denser trail where we heard calls of Mindanao Hornbill, White-eared Tailorbird, Amethyst Brown Dove and Philippine Cuocal. We were expecting the Silvery Kingfisher to show up but to no avail.


Grey Wagtail and Brown-breasted Kingfisher were in friendly mode near a concrete water impounding area together with Purple-throated Sunbird, Collared Kingfisher, Red-keeled Flowerpecker and the migrant Grey-streaked Flycatcher. After series of hiking I decided to take breakfast in one of the sari-sari stores there but before that Joel brought me to a house where a Mindanao Bleeding Heart was in captive, not a good site to witness. Just after a short hike in an open area the Zamboanga Bulbul finally provided a short perching period. Hair-crested Drongo also perched from afar which had me taking this out of focus photo below. And when we trekked back to the Silvery Kingfisher Site I got glimpse of the very rare migrant Blue and White Flycatcher although I did not get good photo because it disappeared very quickly. Pete told me he only saw this stunning bird four times.


That round of birding in Pasonanca gracefully ended my second visit in Zamboanga City. I am deeply gratified for the assistance given by Joel, perhaps the very good person to look when doing birding in Zamboanga especially in Pasonanca Natural Park. Sir Ed Ragaza of PAMB Mt. Apo, thank you so much Sir for including me in this great trip which definitely gave me more reasons to work for more with our very own highest Philippine mountain.